Wild Storms and Wild Trees

Today began muddy after a long rain last night – too muddy to negotiate the rutted road to our lynx site – so we had a day in the office. I spent the morning putting range water troughs on the map for the upcoming birdramp project, then ran out of useful things to do. Kate had a range management meeting to attend, so I was on my own for the afternoon. I decided to take a crack at finding a few of the closer water wells on the range.

I knew that storms were on the way – a tornado warning had been issued near Jackson – and before I could locate my first well in the maze of gasfield roads I was reversing my route down the two-track roads – trying to get back to a road that would not be liquefied by the advancing downpour. Check out the photos of the day to see the wall cloud that preceded the storm.

I reached a well along a decent road in the middle of the storm and tried to wait it out, but rather than pass quickly like most storms out here, the rain mellowed but kept coming, with no sign of lighter skies to the west. Finally, I had to head back toward the office – along a different road that would take me past another well. As it happened, the rain stopped just as I reached that well, so I took my data and moved onward.

Farther up the road I reached an area of construction – cutting back a bank along the road – that for some reason had not stopped during the rain. I was confronted by large machinery occupying a stretch of 6-inch-deep clay mud with a small torrent crossing the road. A dump truck dropped a load of gravel in the stream, and a guy waved me through. So I threw the big Chevy in 4-low and chugged through without incident, soon finding myself back on hard surfaces leading me to Pinedale.

I am finally reading The Wild Trees, a book with a number of small-world stories involving birds, a friend’s mother, and Ecuador. The book describes the adventures, near-death experiences, and personal lives of a group of scientists exploring the high canopies of redwood forests. The story begins with my freshman year RA, Zoe Anderson, a studio art major. Reluctant to leave Carleton after graduation, she stayed on as a fifth-year intern with the art department. It so happens that Zoe has a mother who likes birds, and who came to visit Carleton this past spring. Zoe asked me if I would lead a bird walk in the Arb for her mother, and – never one to pass up an opportunity to watch birds – I agreed. The birds appeared for us – warblers, meadowlarks, even a Henslow’s Sparrow, and many species to add to Zoe’s mom’s life list. As we walked, the mom recommended a book she had read – The Wild Trees. People recommend books all the time, so I wasn’t particularly piqued. A few weeks later I find a package from an unfamiliar name addressed to Michael Lutter. After the post office informed me that no one with a name at all similar to Michael Lutter attended Carleton, I opened the package to discover that Rosemary Anderson had not forgotten the book but had obviously never asked how to spell my name.

The second thread of the story begins in Ecuador with professor Leah Larsen, a sparky and beautiful young woman with a passion for botany and tree climbing. Leah climbed trees with lanyards – basically two extendable ropes attached to different high branches that allowed her to move safely in any direction. She taught us the basics, and we all enjoyed climbing around the large but not really tall Podocarpus trees of the cloud forest. Leah spent most of her graduate school experience in the tops of redwood trees, learning the ropes from Steve Sillett, who just so happens to be the main character in The Wild Trees. Leah even merits mention in the book.

Kind of makes me want to go climb some trees….

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Lynx again

Back to lynx work today, now at 414 of 714 points. Should be able to do lynx work tomorrow if the predicted rain holds off, then four-wheeler training on Thursday and Friday.

Photos from last weekend are up. Take a look here.

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Warm days, parents, and the spirits of the Tetons

Thursday: M&C; picked out a campsite and looked around town while I worked in the morning. At noon we had a potluck lunch as a farewell to four employees who are leaving soon. Afternoon took M&C; out for a taste of lynx surveys – seems they weren’t too impressed with the amount of hiking and climbing over logs involved. Had dinner at the Mexican restaurant and headed up to Fremont Lake to set up tents and sit around the campfire.

Friday: Off to Jackson for a day of good eating (though I don’t recommend softshell crab sandwiches), shopping, and wandering. We drove up to the Tetons, where Michele found a group of spiritual masters in an etheric temple centered around the Grand Teton. They recommended that I spend three nights in the backcountry for spiritual attunement. As I hardly need an excuse to spend three nights in the Tetons, I have tentatively planned that outing for Sept. 13-16. After tasty desserts at the Bunnery, back to Pinedale and campsite.

Today is a bit more laid-back. Chris isn’t feeling great and wants to rest at the campsite. Michele is wandering around town. We will probably drive up to Elkhart Park for good views of the mountains.

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A stick shift, a new truck, and getting paid to catch butterflies

First two days of this week were back at the lynx habitat surveys – now up to 359 of 714 points (the total grew by almost 50% when we were told to survey pure conifer stands as well as stands with aspen). On Monday, Kate checked out the BLM’s only manual transmission truck – a little Ford Ranger. So I got my first chance to work a stick. Pretty easy over 10 mph, but I never managed to start out smoothly.

Today Chrissy needed help with insect collection on her potholes project, so Kate and I tagged along. My job was to catch butterflies and dragonflies in a net and to suck up tiny insects using an aspirator (basically a tube with a chamber to catch the bugs). Chrissy tried to wade out to collect aquatic insects and soon found herself mired nearly to her waist in mud. She lost a shoe in the deal, and Kate and I enjoyed ourselves – who wouldn’t mind getting paid to chase butterflies? We checked out one of the BLM’s newest trucks, a Ford F150 with under 400 miles on the odometer. It might be a long time before I ever get to drive a vehicle that new again.

Michele and Chris arrived around 6 pm. We went out for tasty food at Cafe on Pine (Pinedale’s only fancy restaurant) and caught up on stories and news.

Weather has been beautiful – frost again this morning but warming up to about 75. Could be some thunder ahead, but otherwise looks good.

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A Tale of Four Moons

I have not always been one to track the phases of the moon, but this natural cycle sometimes provides welcome constancy in transitions and new places. I remember how odd it seemed to lay in a tent in the Andes knowing that back home in Minnesota the same full moon shone, albeit a bit lower in the sky.

Recently, though, each full moon has brought a new adventure, and I would rather like this trend to continue.

May: A night walk in the Arb with Heather. Fireflies are sparkling everywhere and Heather says the moon is brighter in Minnesota, perhaps due to “high levels of background magic.”

June: Camping in Yellowstone with Chelsea. A warm night sandwiched between days of geysers, waterfalls, and bears.

July: Sitting in the hot tub at RMBL, first alone beneath the moon then joined by old friends.

August: Atop Fremont Peak with a view like none I have yet seen.

What next? No idea, but life is full of surprises…

Spent the afternoon in Jackson today, shopping for a new hat and eating delicious Mexican food. Time to get some sleep for more lynx surveys tomorrow.

Just completed the Fremont Peak photo essay. Check it out here.

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Back from Fremont Peak

Just back from Fremont. Climbed the peak this morning, then back out – 18 miles total. Look for a photo essay tomorrow.

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Big winds and big storms – and reflections

Ah…the fickle weather of Wyoming. Storms do not move–they develop and disappear in place, so that clear sky may become rain in an hour or an approaching storm may dissipate before it arrives. Today brought rainclouds around noon – storms that immediately dropped the temperature about 20 degrees with a 40 mph wind. Hailstones and lightning strikes, then back to calm and 70. More storms in the late afternoon. High peaks may see some snow today and tomorrow, but weather still looks perfect for our planned Fremont Peak ascent this weekend.

49 lynx points today – a new record. Not too surprising, as most of the areas were aspen or open sagebrush and so easy to write off as inadequate denning habitat. Both Kate and I are beginning to tire of the daily grind to tick off the points – now at 240 of 458. Should be another two weeks.

Bought backpacking food and final supplies this evening. Now watching Planet Earth (someone has DVDs) and packing – we plan to leave at 4 pm tomorrow to get a good start. Ryan is battling a potential hernia so is worried that he might have to turn back.

Finally got a chance to open the “remember” document – memories of graduation prepared by parents, friends, and relatives. Quite a lot of work went into that! Brings back memories – some wonderful, some sad. Too bad that I really didn’t appreciate what Carleton meant to me until a few months before it was time to leave for the last time. I am supposed to add my memories. Perhaps I will sometime, but I really don’t have much to say about most of it. Good to see relatives again, but same old questions – what’s next? – and just like any other reunion or gathering. Lunches were – well – just food, and the ceremonies were as dry as any other grand production of that institution revered as high academia. Of course it feels good to receive hard-earned honors, but that is not what life is about.

What matters to me is not the ceremony – the end. Perhaps the only importance of the ending – aside from forcing a jump from a comfortable home into the “real world” – is that the knowledge that the end is approaching provides an impetus to step above the daily routines of studying and related anxieties in order to take advantage of all that is offered and to make a lasting difference. In my case, this meant a trip to Louisiana, a song of my own arranging, an geeky but award-winning video, IM sports, various escapades of streaking, and an Arb booklet that was an attempt to give back some of the knowledge and experience gained from four years of intimate relations with Carleton’s natural lands.

The last term brought my first attempt to create a social environment of my own design – Wednesday night bonfires. Sparklers, instruments, voices, wings of light in long exposures, Polish mead, homebrew and better brew, and a weekly gathering of friends. Looking back on graduation, I mainly remember my final bonfire – the hurry and scurry to relocate and tell everybody, Ed’s original songs, homegrown rhubarb, Aaron (not Erin – Erin is a girl’s name) and his improv violin, Heather the elf and her “Caledonia” solo, sad final goodbyes to Heather, late-night discussions with Aaron. The academic achievements and awards are important to me – if I had done poorly I could not have been satisfied with myself or my Carleton experience – but aside from that they mean little. They help me to feel good about myself in some ways, but they are but cold recognition. I will miss the love and acceptance, my role as naturalist and Arb consultant, the community of liberal (if unfortunately atheist) intellectuals as eager to toss a volleyball or a frisbee as to understand the theory of kin selection or the fundamental theorem of calculus. I will miss the A Cappellicans, both as a group of friends and a chance to express through music.

In short, there is very little about graduation itself that I will remember. It is important to those who had few or no other chances to visit Carleton, or to those who count milestones along a life path. But to me it is only a transition – a time of bustle and formality. I can only hope that I will manage to find another community of like-minded people in the coming years, and that when I do I will realize what I have found before the end approaches.

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Basketball and a northwest wind

Another 10-hour day under fast-moving clouds from the northwest and temps in the low 60s. A welcome change from the summer dry heat. We found bear claw marks on an aspen where a small bear – probably an older cub – had attempted to climb it and succeeded in making it about 10 feet up. Today’s transect followed a little clear mountain stream up a steep valley before breaking out into open aspen.

After dinner, Nick and I went down to the park where we found a local high school basketball player eager to start a game. So I got some good exercise and realized exactly how bad my shots have become since my team play days.

Remaining REI items arrived today, and I bought a little pack at the outdoor shop to carry water and food up the mountain on Saturday.

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Clear skies and a new warbler

Back to the lynx work today following a cold front last night that brought fall-like temperatures – 40s in the morning rising to beautiful 70s in the afternoon. The front cleared out the haze, leaving the sky almost impossibly clear. I find it hard to pull my eyes from the full 80-mile-long profile of the Wind River crest against the cerulean sky – every peak seeming somehow more real with the obscuring haze gone. The Wyoming Range to the west and the Gros Ventre Range to the north appear equally clear, and the few cirrus clouds seem a welcome addition to the spectacle. Forecast calls for more of the same beautiful weather.

Kate and I finished 45 points today – shattering our previous record of 36 – but we are still only 1/3 done with the project. Should take us 2-3 more weeks, then on to the range water/birdramp work. Kate is eager to move on to a project at least tangentially related to cattle (she is a range management major with somewhat less interest in nonexistent endangered wildlife).

A group of Townsend’s Warblers made an appearance in the aspen canopy as we stopped for lunch. Not too different from their eastern counterparts (Black-throated Green Warblers), but even so it’s not that often I find a new warbler species.

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A 20+ mile hike

The last two days I have been backpacking to try out my new gear. Check out the photo essay for stories and photos. Also take a look at the photos of the day for a couple of photos from Cheyenne.

Back to lynx surveys tomorrow. Will be working 10-hour days in order to bank hours to take Friday off, so will be starting at 7 am.

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