Boulder Canyon Loop

August 18-19, 2007

I bought over $1,000 worth of gear for Ecuador but somehow didn't end up with enough for a solo backpacking trip. So in preparation for Fremont Peak. So I sent in an online order from REI to get a good water purifier, a camp stove/dishes, and a bear-proof container. Originally, Ryan, Nick, and I had planned to do an overnight trip this weekend, but for some reason when the time came they were no longer interested - so I picked out a two-day loop route to the southwest of Pinedale. On the map, it appeared to be about 17 miles, but the map doesn't show turns and switchbacks, so I suspect the total was more like 20-23 miles.

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Upon arrival at the Boulder Lake parking lot, I was surprised to find five llamas in the lot three more coming down the road. It seems that a local guest ranch has found a way to provide backpacking for those unable - or too lazy - to carry their own pack.

I set off up Boulder Canyon (7259 ft) at 3:15 pm with about 40 pounds on my back. The first five miles was easy - a level walk along Boulder Creek.

A beaver pond in Boulder Creek Canyon.

I passed a few other hikers and horseback riders, including a line of 16 horses guided by four riders (exercise or training for the horses?). At the end of the canyon the trail climbs 1,000 feet to Lake Ethel - my toughest climb of the trip.

An interesting rock in the trail on the climb to Lake Ethel.

Mark at Lake Ethel.

I reached Lake Ethel (8700 ft) a bit after 6 pm and decided to camp on a level spot above Lake Christina - which I planned to reach around 8. The terrain in the Wind River Mountains is mostly between 9000 and 11000 feet - polished granite knobs and ridges interspersed with valleys and lakes. For the hiker, this means that hikes consist of alternating steep stretches and level lakeside walks.

A fearless deer above Lake Ethel.

Ed's Lake (9000 ft), a little lake between Lake Ethel and Lake Christina.

As I approached Lake Christina, clouds began to roll over the ridge - the first sign of rain despite the 50% chance of severe storms prediction. I stopped at the lake to filter water before climbing a short ridge and finding a campsite at around 8:10.

Storm approaching over Lake Christina.

Storms in the mountains move very fast - faster, it turns out, than I can set up my tent. Lightning was taking aim at nearby mountains as I connected the poles, and the rain began just as I tossed the rainfly over the top. Then, as I hurried to push in stakes, it began to hail in earnest - a somewhat painful barrage of ball-bearing-sized ice balls. As quickly as I could, I tossed the raincover on my backpack, grabbed some dry clothes, and jumped into the tent to ride out the storm, which ended about five minutes later. Time to try out the new stove. Amazing! - turn on the gas, light a match, and boil two cups of water in about 3 minutes - not to mention avoiding the hassle of gathering firewood and the risk of starting a forest fire.

Little WindPro stove in action - titanium pot is also from REI.

I slept well - tired from nine miles of uphill hiking, and woke late to a clear sky.

My "half-wedge" tent in a rare level spot near Lake Christina. All mature trees here are dead from a recent forest fire.

The "bear vault" - light but unbreakable and impervious to curious bears.

I set off upvalley at 10 am and was soon treated to a mid-morning treat - wild raspberries.

At 11:30, I finally reached the Highline Trail - the only trail to run the full length of the Wind River Range (about 80 miles). My route only took me on this trail for about 3 miles before I turned south toward Coyote Lake and - ultimately - Boulder Lake.

Edmund Lake (10,000 feet) - the highest point of my hike.

A mountain meadow just past Edmund Lake - good to be out of the bleak burned area.

I turned off the Highline Trail near Lake George, at a place that provide good views of the high mountains to the northwest.

After Coyote Lake and Cross Lake, the trail follows a ridgeline at 9500 feet, which occasionally provides amazing views out into the plains below. If only the darn haze would go away...

The Earth actually looks curved from up here!

Afternoon shower over Boulder Lake, as seen from 1700 feet up.

From the top of the ridge, it's a knee-knocking 2,000-foot descent to Boulder Lake, broken only by a short level stretch along beautiful Blueberry Lake (well it's round, and kind of blue, so maybe...).

Looking north across Blueberry Lake.

I reached the car at 5:15 - just about on schedule - and headed back to Pinedale looking forward to a big meal and glad to have spent a weekend in one of the Earth Mother's unspoiled places. A lady stopped me on my way out to ask if I had encountered a bear - apparently some hikers found one today just below Lake Ethel.

Back at Boulder Lake, looking back up at the ridge from which the above picture of the lake was taken.