Cold days and inversion fog

The past week has been mostly dry – unusual for November here – but while the coast and the mountains have been seeing relatively warm, clear days, here in the Willamette valley we are lucky to top out at 45 degrees and to see the sun for two hours around 2 pm after the fog breaks and before the next fog forms. With no wind to speak of, cold moist air sinks into the valley and stays put, keeping us foggy for 18 hours of every day. Even so, I still prefer cool, foggy, and green to Minnesota’s cold, clear, and white/brown.

Longer post tomorrow…

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Beautiful days, old-growth explorations

Stories and photos here.

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Application in!

I just submitted my NSF fellowship application, which feels good after a month of working on it. Time for a beer! (And to do my other homework…)

Rain gauge reads 0.98″ – should make it to an inch by midnight. South winds are bringing in moisture and warm air. The temperature has been slowly rising all day and now stands at 55 degrees.

Lily came back last night for the contra dance with Wild Asparagus (a well-known band in contra dance circles). The gym was packed with about triple the usual attendance, and though I don’t mind dancing with random happy hippie ladies, contra dances are more fun when you bring friends!

Two more days of rain before we get a break. I am beginning to get used to the peaceful rains here, and for now at least I much prefer clouds to the frigid winds of November in Minnesota.

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Full moon approaching

It is clear tonight for the first time in about 10 days, confirming that the moon does in fact still exist and that it is waxing to full on schedule. We are briefly in between weather systems, with a weak front bring clouds and a few showers tomorrow, and a warm front and associated low forecast to bring 1-2 inches Tuesday through Thursday. The clouds and rain have brought moderate temperatures, and we have yet to drop below 40 degrees this month. The weekend looks dry, and if so I will have to make good use of it since the general wetness will continue through February.

I reworked my NSF proposal today to make it into a more feasible, circumscribed project. As a result it is now more in my words than my advisor’s, and I am quite satisfied with it. Now I just have to polish my other two essays and get it submitted by Wednesday.

I registered for winter classes today as well – physics 213 (required – electricity and magnetism), biochemistry 2, microbial genetics and biotechnology (key to what I will be working on), and biosystems modeling techniques (the one core graduate class required by my department). Could be a challenge, but ought to be more fun than this term (differential equations = not fun).

Lily came to visit on Friday, and we had a great time singing old Pellicans songs and other folk songs, chatting with my hippie-greenie housemates, cooking my old standard maple syrup tofu, and carrying on deep conversations about the nature of life and human interactions. On Saturday we explored the farmers’ market in the rain before Lily headed back to Eugene.

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Obama!

You don’t need me to tell you, but just let me say I am glad to see an end to the era that began eight years ago!

When the results were announced, we cracked open a series of long-stored high-quality beers in a toast to the man who has gone from an unlikely underdog to the next US President. Congratulations Mr. Obama, and I hope you follow through on that promise to spend $180 billion on alternative energy (and I hope that some small fraction of that will fund direct solar biohydrogen)!

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Rain!

This is the land of rain – or so they say – but it has been rather dry until now. Today the clouds finally decided to dump, and it looks like the rain will continue on and off at least through the weekend. The total for today stands at 0.81″, but it is still raining so we could have an inch by midnight. The low pressure center just passed over an hour ago, and the pressure is beginning to rise. The Cascades will be seeing the first major snowfall tonight, with up to a foot above 5,000 feet. The rain feels good, even at 47 degrees, and I enjoy seeing the grass turning green in November rather than brown as it is in Minnesota.

My last weekend was somewhat less eventful – mostly working on my scholarship application – but I did go to a contra dance on Saturday evening and to a potluck on Sunday. After taking exams in all of my classes, I am now done with exams until Nov. 14. The previous weekend, when it was still clear, I drove to the coast and studied biochemistry sitting on the beach, ate some freshly cooked crab, and had a few more beer samples at the Rogue brewery in Newport.

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Clear fall days

The rainy season has not yet started, and Mother Earth has seen fit to give us a long stretch of beautiful clear days, which is forecast to continue through next Wednesday. Fall colors are at their peak, and temperatures warm into the 60s every day after lows in the lower 30s. We have had three frosts now, though none quite as cold as the first one. Yesterday I drove to the top of Marys Peak once again, and this time I remembered to bring my camera. Check out the photos (along with a few from last weekend) here. Last Saturday I enjoyed hearing my favorite singer, Dar Williams, live in Eugene, then spent Saturday night at Lost Valley before meandering north through the Cascades (via two hot springs) to Portland, where I picked Ali up at the airport. I am just getting over a cold that had me feeling pretty sick for a while on Saturday. Thankfully it let up for the concert and Cascade explorations.

I have a test in differential equations tomorrow, and I’m also meeting with my adviser to discuss thesis project possibilities (for a scholarship application that I’m working on).

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Fresh fruits, hippies, and ancient forests

As of today I have been in Oregon exactly one month, though as will all transition times it seems much longer than that. So long, in fact, that already this summer is fading into a warm cobwebby neural network of botanical names, bird songs, and evening dips in Lac qui Parle. Six months ago I was learning to work with fire on Minnesota prairies. Nine months ago I was sitting in a warm, mint-smelling warehouse packaging homeopathic remedies. One year ago I was hiking in the Tetons, reading Tolkien while soaking in hot springs, and applying to Cornell for ornithology. Eighteen months ago I was working on my interpretive arb guide and preparing for my comps talk while also brewing beer, taking field drawing, and singing with the A Cappellicans. Twenty-seven months ago I was studying marmots in the high rockies, developing a taste for quality beer, exploring the Elk Mountains, and spending at least an hour a day playing volleyball. Thirty months ago I was worried sick about having cancer, writing a thirty-page paper, and sitting by the Northfield train tracks doing my work. Three years ago I was banding birds in the high cloud forest of Ecuador, climbing trees to study ferns, and rising to the sounds of frog peeps on foggy mornings to make banana pancakes for our crew. Now I am taking classes in Corvallis, eating fresh fruits, contra dancing with hippies, and exploring the old-growth forest.

My life always looks better in hindsight – perhaps simply because moments of joy make memories that bring me closer to a clear experience of life when I think of them – while moments of fear or anxiety do not make memories and so fade into the unmarked and unfelt annals of past experience. My only negative memories are borne of truly unpleasant physical experiences – mainly periods of illness or bad air.

It feels a bit odd to be back in class, especially differential equations which has very little to do with my research. Physics is equally unrelated but more interesting, and biochemistry is both interesting and very applicable to my work. As for that “work,” I still have yet to do any work in the lab, and it seems that I may not be able to do much until I complete a year of coursework. Getting paid to take classes is fine, but I would like some sort of confirmation that I am “on the right path” in life, or at least that I can be happy working full-time with tiny photosynthetic organisms, and it seems that I won’t be getting that confirmation any time soon.

Looking back over the past three years, my happiness has been determined less by what I was doing full-time than by what I was doing the rest of the time. My overall satisfaction, on the other hand, is more connected to the meaning I find in my work. Thus I had a great time in Colorado but didn’t really want to do it again since the work didn’t seem meaningful. Working toward bio-solar energy seems to be about the most meaningful thing I could do, so if I can keep my work from eating all of my time and keep my extra-curricular life interesting, I should be able to craft a fulfilling life here in Corvallis. Especially with the fresh fruits, hippies, and old-growth forest.

Regarding the fruits. In Minnesota there are two varieties of grapes: red and green. They are both firm, sweet, and relatively devoid of flavor. Here there are about 20 varieties, ranging from deep-black Concords that taste like the beginnings of wine to delicious rose seedless Suffolks whose tart skins and sugary insides make for a real treat. Blackberry season lasts from May to October, and some folks are still picking blueberries. Apples and pears abound, and hardy kiwis (sweet little kiwis about the size of a large grape) are just coming into season. Add to these the hazelnuts that will be coming soon and the peaches that come earlier, and we have quite a selection. In the wet winter months there are fewer fruits but abundant wild mushrooms, many of which are quite delicious.

Regarding the hippies. In Minnesota we have very few hippies, and we tend to think of hippies as free-loving dirty drug-users who are somehow out of touch with reality. Oregon, on the other hand, has a very large population of hippies, and they make this area a much more enticing place to live.

Hippiedom, as I see it, is based in an ideal of authenticity. It is still somewhat a counterculture, in that it doesn’t embrace American consumerism. Hippies have a liberal attitude toward drugs, and many have tried more than a few, but overall they seem no more attached to their chemical friends than sons and daughters of Minnesota Christians. Hippies grow, sell, and buy organic produce. They bring drums and guitars to the farmers market and sing folk songs while people buy veggies. They plan contra dances and soak naked in hot springs. They enjoy good beer. A good many still live out of VW buses – primarily because they are willing to forgo the comforts of a home in return for less time spent earning money and a greater ability to travel cheaply. Without hippies, Corvallis and Eugene would be just two more St. Cloud-type small cities filled with big box stores and housing subdivisions, but hippies bring us bike lanes, contra dances, homebrew-supply stores, organic produce markets, cheap public transit, and a generally more interesting culture.

Regarding the forest. In order for me to feel true to myself, I need to spend a fair amount of time in nature. Working in nature doesn’t count, as I discovered whilst attempting to launch a career as a field researcher. I need to simply explore in a contemplative mood, allowing my senses to connect me with the uniqueness of the moment in one particular spot, and in doing so connect to the full experience of life that keeps me ever thankful that I chose, at one time, to inhabit a body on this planet. That, at least, is how it should work. Usually I am otherwise engaged worrying about what I should be doing or talking with others, or my mind is simply too tired or not in the correct state, in which case I still enjoy the hike but don’t feel the same connection. The good part is that there are millions of acres of beautiful public land to explore out here, so I will never run out of new places to explore.

Of course I had some of these things in Minnesota, and in particular I developed a deep attachment to a particular piece of land that I have not yet been able to replicate elsewhere. So even as I explore new places, I will still remember the tinkling rivulets of Bluff Creek on the first warm day in March, when I could stick my nose deep into the green moss and smell the living essence returning after the long winter. I will remember June sunsets atop my cedar tree, with the haunting tremolo of the wood thrush blending with the first sound of the whip-poor-will and punctuated by the sharp but fluid night song of the ovenbird. I will remember spring cleaning days, the scent of lilacs on the warm east breeze that speaks of rain to come, rugs and rags hanging on the clothesline, and hands lovingly tucking in the seeds that would soon be peas, lettuce, and tomatoes. When the oak leaves fall and collect on the cool damp ground, the smell will remind me of October weekends, when Ed would run the saw and I would load the truck with wood – oak, ash, elm, ironwood – that would keep us warm while affirming our connection to the cycles of life around us. I have, in truth, had similar experiences in Ecuador and elsewhere, but never with the same emotional intensity that comes from being intimately acquainted with the ways of the natural world in one particular spot, so that every wind switch and every rainstorm is significant and fits into the pattern – the intricate heartbeat of the land.

But I digress…

Providing I can keep my life in balance, I remember to spend time in nature, and my research seems to be moving forward, I believe I will like it out here in Oregon. God bless the hippies!

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When the frost is on the pumpkin…

The average first frost date in Minnesota is about September 25. The average first frost date in Corvallis is October 25. So nineteen out of twenty years it probably freezes earlier in Minnesota. Not this year. We dropped to 29.3 degrees yesterday morning, tying a record low set in 1890. Most summer crops have been harvested, so I heard few complaints, but the frost did kill our tomato and cucumber plants in the garden. We’ve been burning a lot of wood, and I bought a space heater yesterday to keep my room more comfortable as well as to control fermentation temperatures for the beer (see below).

High pressure continues under clear skies, though this morning was a wee bit warmer (34.7). I’m planning to drive to the top of Marys Peak today – at 4096 feet the highest mountain in our part of the coast range.

When homework leaves me alone, I’ve been double-digging our squash plot in preparation for garlic planting and brewing another batch of beer. This batch is an old ale – with lots of malt – that should produce a tasty, syrupy, high-alcohol brew ideal for sipping on cold winter nights. Fermentation has been a bit slow to begin, and I’m afraid I may need to add some more yeast to really get things going.

Check out the photos of the day for brew-pictures.

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A seven mouse day

Here at 4715 Nash we our on our third “creature plague.” Creature plagues here, while annoying, are not nearly as bad as in Minnesota because our creatures do not a) bite or b) stink. First came the flies, which we eliminated with sticky fly strips. Second came the fruit flies, which I largely eliminated by pouring cider vinegar over the fly strips. Now we have mice. At first we were content to let the little buggers be, but when they started sleeping in Ali’s bed and nibbling the apples on our kitchen counter, we decided it was time to declare war. So out came the snap-traps, and down went the mice. Three overnight last night, and four more today. One trap under the kitchen sink has caught five of the mice, so I’m guessing they are coming in near there. In any case, we plan to keep up the trapping until we have depleted our local mouse population.

I had no academic duties today, so I started collecting research papers on biological hydrogen production and accumulated a list of ~70 or so. Tomorrow between classes I will start reading some of them.

I installed my scanner/antenna this evening, so we’ve been listening to Union Pacific and the Corvallis police.

Yesterday was the first day of class. I must say I am disappointed at the quality of the teaching here compared to Carleton. I also feel like classes here will require significantly less time commitment, so I will have more time to read and think about my project and to get acquainted with lab work.

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